Recreation of Thomas Stevens' Epic Journey by High-Wheel Bicycle across Japan
Pair of old college roommates--including the publisher of Real Gaijin--have teamed up to travel from Nagasaki to Yokohama by bicycle.
Traveling anywhere by bicycle provides a much different perspective than making the same journey by car or train. While simply moving from Point A to Point B takes much longer, it is possible to discover a different side of the countryside when traveling at the speed of a bicycle. This is, moreover, a story about recreating the final leg of the first trip around the world by bicycle, and we are not talking about a normal road bicycle. This journey is being done by high-wheeler or penny farthing bicycle. It is called Project Dharma.
Who
Eric Knight, 55, "Past Commander" of The Wheelmen (thewheelmen.org), which is a U.S. based, non-profit organization dedicated to keeping alive the heritage of American cycling, promoting the restoration and riding of early cycles manufactured in and before 1932, and encouraging cycling as part of modern living, and Mark Kennedy, 55, one of Eric's college roommates who has lived and worked in Japan for three decades (also the publisher or Real Gaijin), are currently retracing the route of the final leg across Japan taken in late 1886 by Thomas Stevens, the American adventurer who was the first person to ride a bicycle around the world.
What
Eric is riding the entire route on one of his high-wheelers. This type of bicycle used to be known in Japan as an "ordinary" or "daruma jitensha." In the U.K. and in many of the commonwealth countries such bicycles are called "penny farthing" bicycles. Mark, in a support role and interpreter, is accompanying Eric while riding a modern bicycle with electric assist.
When
Eric and Mark began their historic ride on Sunday, September 24, 2023. Earlier today (October 10), the pair arrived in Sakai, Osaka. Thus, Eric and Mark are, essentially, still on track to conclude the ride on or around October 25. Please check their social media feed and/or the Country Roads Japan website for more frequent updates.
Where
From Thomas Stevens' original starting location in Nagasaki until his final recorded destination of Yokohama; Eric and Mark plan to stay true to the original 1,500+ km route to the greatest extent possible by traversing the northern portion of Kyushu, hugging the northern shore of the Seto Inland Sea, and then traveling most of the rest of the journey along the famous Tokaido route.
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3cb0a5f2-3e88-43bf-a102-1873c751ab4c_3359x2519.jpeg)
Along the way the two biking enthusiasts took a short detour to explore the Shimanami Kaido cycling route. Tomorrow they will make a stop at the Shimano Bicycle Museum in Sakai, Osaka. Time permitting in a couple of weeks they plan to make a side trip to some of the mountains near Mt. Fuji (some of which may be done on foot). After a symbolic visit to Osanbashi Pier, which would have been near where Thomas Stevens departed on a steamship to California, the pair are planning a final ride up to the Bicycle Culture Center, where they will finish this epic journey.
Why
To foster collaboration with Japanese bicycle enthusiasts--particularly those interested in the historical aspects of cycling, to shed light on the original journey of Thomas Stevens, and to have fun exploring the Japanese countryside.
How
Eric is riding a high-wheeler, which as been equipped with modern brakes, reflectors, and a bell for safety purposes. While retracing Thomas Stevens' original route according to his diary, the pair plan have been stopping along the way at a variety of local inns. They vary the distance to be traveled each day depending upon the local terrain, the weather, and their stamina.
To keep up-to-date, please track their progress via any of the following means:
Country Roads Japan Website: https://countryroadsjapan.com/home
Country Roads Japan Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/countryroadsjapan/?hl=ja
Country Roads Japan Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/CountryRoadsJapan
Country Roads Japan YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCtR7l2eZlPKH7uPPNkC2Mw
Links to Japanese Press Releases about Project Dharma:
Mainichi Shinbun: https://mainichi.jp/articles/20230926/k00/00m/040/057000c
Yahoo News: https://news.yahoo.co.jp/articles/347a6dfe2d451e8e1d653a9f0cd912a40abd2b52
Nishi-Nihon Shinbun: https://www.nishinippon.co.jp/item/n/1131458/
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Bravo, gentlemen! What a great adventure. The two of you seem to have some great cycling kit, too. IIRC, "ordinary" is the proper name for a penny-farthing bicycle in the UK also. I wonder what they're like to peddle up hill?! Japan has lots of hills although I guess it mostly pancake flat along the coast?
I haven't ridden a bicycle since I was a child. Cyclists get a raw deal these days. Most of the roads are too busy for cyclists to use without putting themselves and other road users at serious risk of death/injury. Unfortunately in Japan, it seems that cyclists choose to transfer this risk from themselves to pedestrians and their pets by riding on the sidewalk (where there is one). In every other country I've lived in, cycling on the sidewalk is illegal, as it should be. It is just common sense that wheels ("light vehicles") and legs should not share the same thoroughfare.
According to "The Yomiuri Shimbun" (Sept. 27, 2023): "The percentage of bicycle accidents among all traffic accidents continues to increase annually, and last year reached 23%. Accidents involving collisions between cyclists and pedestrians on sidewalks and elsewhere have been particularly conspicuous. The number of cases in which pavement walkers have suffered serious injuries, or, in some cases, death, has recently exceeded 300 a year." Bicycles on sidewalks have collided with me twice.
More needs to be done to provide dedicated thoroughfares for cyclists where they can ride without causing inconvenience and danger to themselves and others. If Japan can build thousands of kilometers of dedicated tracks for the shinkansen, it can do the same for bicycles.
Mark, best of luck. This is simply fantastic. I wish you all the best. Thank you for sharing your experiences with all of us. So great.