Kyoto Ultimate 3-Day Travel Guide
Despite concerns about "over-tourism," there is a reason why Kyoto is Japan's top tourist destination and remains a "must see" for any foreign visitor to the country.
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Japan's quintessential tourist destination, Kyoto, is considered the preeminent cultural capital of Japan and was the home of the Japanese imperial family for eleven centuries until 1869. Kyoto residents are known to be somewhat suspicious of outsiders - even from within Japan - but foreign visitors are actually very welcome.
So if you want to try to experience firsthand the fictional life of the enchanting Sayuri or her lover Nobu from Arthur Golden's Memoirs of a Geisha, who made their home in Kyoto, it would be best to plan to stay for two nights and allow three days for sightseeing1, including travel to and from Tokyo. Here is a sample itinerary based on this time frame.
Day 1 in the Afternoon: Higashi Yama Area
Suppose you arrive at Kyoto Station around noon2 and want to see some sights before going out for dinner, an especially good combination would be to visit Sanjusangendo (三十三間堂) and Kiyomizudera Temple (清水寺) with a walk through Ninenzaka Slope (二年坂) and Sannenzaka Slope (三年坂) in the Higashi Yama (東山 "East Mountain") district.
Sanjusangendo Temple (三十三間堂)
This temple, founded in 1164 A.D., contains 1,001 statues of Kannon, the goddess of mercy. The statues are housed in a 120-meter-long (approximately 400 foot-long) hall filled with human-size statues, 10 deep, each with 42 arms and 11 heads. In the center is a 1,000-armed Kannon statue. The entrance fee is 600 JPY.
Kiyomizudera Temple (清水寺)
The Kiyomizudera Temple, founded in 780 A.D., and the long path leading up to the entrance, lined with tourist shops, are especially striking during the cherry blossom season and when the leaves change color during autumn. If you can time your visit to fall on a clear day just before sunset, enlightenment is guaranteed (just kidding). The entrance fee is 400 JPY.
Ninenzaka (二年坂) and Sannenzaka (三年坂) Slopes
A short walk north of Kiyomizudera Temple are two of the city's most iconic locations. These two picturesque hills are featured in virtually every advertisement for Kyoto, and for good reason. Both offer prime Instagrammable scenery both during the day and at night. They are the Ninenzaka Slope (二年坂) and Sannenzaka Slope (三年坂).
Day 2 in the Morning: Nishiki Market (錦市場), the Philosopher’s Path (哲学の道), and Ginkakuji Temple (銀閣寺)
First of all, you should eat a big breakfast, because you will need it for all the walking you will do today! If you are staying in Gion, just walk out the door of your hotel. If not, get to this commercial center either by bicycle3, subway, bus, or taxi and just start exploring the many streets and alleys on both sides of the Kamogawa River. You can use the bridge near Gion Shijo Station to cross the river.
West of the River
A good place to go shopping is the Shinkyogoku Shotengai (新京極商店街), which has a long arcade of all kinds of local shops where you can find some great souvenirs. A little further west is Nishiki Market (錦市場), which has been known as "Kyoto's Kitchen" for the past 400 years.
East of the River
One of the most beautiful places in Gion is along the Shirakawa River, a few blocks north of Gion-Shijo Station. In particular, the Gion Tatsumi Bridge (祇園巽橋) is a popular spot for newlyweds to have their pictures taken.
Further south, you can get a sense of what Kyoto was like during the Edo period by walking along Hanamikoji Street (花見小路).
As you continue east, the main street, Shijo Dori, ends at the Yasaka Jinja Shrine (八坂神社).
Continue east up the hill toward Maruyama Koen Park (円山公園), where you will find a particularly famous cherry tree called Gion Shidare Zakura (祇園しだれ桜), which appears to be weeping. When it blooms, you will certainly not be alone! This tree is also illuminated at night during the cherry blossom season.
Philosopher’s Path (哲学の道) and Ginkakuji Temple (銀閣寺)
Head north (perhaps by taxi) to the famous Philosopher's Path (哲学の道), lined with cherry trees and many good places to stop for coffee or lunch.
Just east of this famous walkway is the Zen Buddhist temple known as the Silver Pavilion or Ginkakuji Temple (銀閣寺), which is best known for its tranquil 15th-century sand garden. The entrance fee is 500 JPY.
Day 2 in the Afternoon: Kinkakuji Temple (金閣寺) and Ryoanji Temple (竜安寺)
Next, you will head west across the city to visit one of Kyoto's most popular tourist attractions, the Golden Pavilion or Kinkakuji Temple (金閣寺), which is literally covered in gold leaf. It will be quite a contrast to the more subtle Silver Pavilion, which, by the way, is not covered in silver. The main structure of Kinkakuji Temple is probably one of the most photographed places in the world. The entrance fee is 500 JPY.
By this point, you may be getting a little tired and wary of the crowds, but a particularly good place to end your day of sightseeing, just down the street, is Ryoanji Temple (龍安寺), known for its large rock garden. It was one of Steve Jobs' favorite places to meditate during his frequent visits to Kyoto, so this temple is the perfect place to reflect on everything you have seen in the past 24 hours. The entrance fee is 500 JPY.
Day 3: Nijojo Castle (二条城) and Arashiyama Bamboo Grove (嵐山の竹林)
At this point, you may have reached "temple overload.” So it's time to do something completely different. First up is the famous "squeaky floor" castle called Nijojo (二条城). Built in 1603 for Japan's most famous shogun, or supreme warlord, Tokugawa Ieyasu, Nijojo Castle is an elaborate, heavily fortified residence built on flat land. The main palace was built with "nightingale floors" called uguisuban (鶯版), which make a chirping sound when someone walks on them. This was apparently part of a security system to protect against attacks by sneaky ninja assassins. The entrance fee is 1,300 JPY for the full tour.
At the end of your grand tour of Kyoto, a great place to take a long walk is the bamboo grove (竹林) of Arashiyama on the western side of the city.
In the afternoon you can make your way back to Kyoto Station to catch the bullet train for the return trip to Tokyo.
Additional Points of Interest
I have put the above itinerary into practice with numerous visitors, so I am sure it works pretty well. However, there is much more to see in and around Kyoto - if you have the time.
Just staying within the city limits could keep you busy for months. Here are some additional favorites:
Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine (伏見稲荷大社)
Dating from 711 A.D., the Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine (伏見稲荷大社) features a path with thousands of vermilion (bright orange) gates called torii (鳥居). It is located about 4 km (2-1/2 miles) south of Kyoto Station and admission is free.
Heian Jingu Shrine (平安神宮)
Although a relative newcomer, built in 1895 to commemorate the 1,100th anniversary of the establishment of Kyoto as the home of the emperor, Heian Jingu Shrine is certainly every bit as impressive as its older neighbors. Starting with the huge vermilion torii or entrance gate, the sheer size of this structure makes it hard to miss. The adjacent garden is, however, the main attraction. Allow at least 45 minutes to see it all. While there is no charge to enter the main grounds of this shrine, there is a fee of 600 JPY to tour the extensive garden.
Kyoto Imperial Palace (京都御所)
This was the home of the Japanese emperors until 1869, when the Meiji Emperor moved to Tokyo. However, the imperial family still visits from time to time. The best way to get a sense of how so many of Japan's former emperors lived here is to take a one-hour tour of the grounds. It is all free, but you must book your place on the tour in advance.
Pontocho Alley (先斗町)
This quaint, car-free nightlife district is home to many restaurants and runs parallel to the west bank of the Kamogawa River between Sanjo and Shijo. It is a great place to spot a maiko4 on her way to an evening dinner party. The narrow facade of some of the more established restaurants can be deceiving, as the restaurant may open up to a large room in the back. This design was an attempt to avoid paying taxes when the tax bill was calculated based on the width of the entrance.
Side Note 1: Practical considerations for dealing with luggage
It is wise to travel with as little luggage as possible. Especially if you plan to stay at a ryokan, you will be given a bathrobe to wear at the inn. Therefore, you may only need to pack clothes for walking around during the day. Most hotels will store your luggage before the official check-in time if you can drop your bags off before you go sightseeing. Kyoto Station also has plenty of coin-operated lockers, which may come in handy on days 1 and 3 of the suggested itinerary.
Side Note 2: Try takyubin and send your luggage separately
Especially if you do not want to carry a lot of luggage on the bullet train, it is possible to have your luggage sent directly to and from your hotel in Kyoto by courier or takyubin (宅急便). Although you will need to allow an extra day or so to ensure that your luggage arrives on time, the cost of this useful service is generally quite reasonable and helps to reduce stress. In fact, this is the way many "locals" travel and is highly recommended.
Conclusion
Now you are ready to take on the role of either the heroine Sayuri or her lover Nobu and explore Kyoto on your own. While you will undoubtedly encounter crowds throughout the city, take a deep breath and relax. It's all part of the atmosphere that makes Kyoto such a special place to visit in Japan.
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Of course, if you have more time and can afford a longer visit, you should definitely stay as many nights as possible!
You can simply leave your bags in a coin-operated locker at the station or drop them off at your hotel, assuming you have not already mailed them to the hotel (see below - Side Note 1 - for more information).
Kyoto's bicycle culture is a seamless blend of tradition and modernity, where locals and tourists alike navigate the city's historic streets on two wheels, offering a sustainable and immersive way to explore its rich cultural heritage. Ask at the front desk of your hotel about where to rent a bicycle.
Apprentice “geisha” in Kyoto.
Thanks for this excellent guide, Mark! After having visited Tokyo for business in the 1990'es, I decided to bring my family to Kyoto first, not the overwhelming big city. That paid off, especially because we stayed out in Arashiyama which is more calm, a good base when travelling with kids like we did. Nice mountain with the monkeys, view of the City. Tour boats on the river, and this cozy little train into town that runs literally between cherry trees and partially on the crowded roads, as well.
Having lived for my first two years in Japan on The Philosopher's Path in Kyoto, I would agree that your suggested itinerary is a good one. As an old person, I find the crowds, all the walking and especially the summer heat somewhat overwhelming; but hopefully people have the common sense to plan accordingly.
As you say, there is a very long list of things to see and do in Kyoto, which has 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites and, allegedly, more than 2000 shrines and temples. One of my favorites would be a half- or full-day excursion to the summit of Mount Hiei (2782 feet), perhaps the most sacred mountain in Japanese Buddhism. It's about 50 minutes by car from Kyoto Station, or 90 minutes by public transport, including a cable car ride. The Enryaku-ji (founded 788) temple complex (spread over three areas of the summit, connected by forested foot-trails) is breathtaking, as are the views of Kyoto, Osaka and stunning Lake Biwa in Shiga Prefecture.
The problem visitors to Kyoto have - apart from "over-tourism" - is that they are spoiled for choice! A week is not long enough, let alone two nights.